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Portraits of the magic of Serra Grande, the bastion of Brazil’s Atlantic Forest

Neither the threat of industrial projects nor the loss of certain ancestral traditions can diminish the wonder of this region of Brazil. Photographer Luisa Dörr, who traded the big city for this unique land, captures its nature and people

Leticia Santos, 13, at her aunt Nana's house, who runs an organic farm.Luisa Dörr

Serra Grande, in the Brazilian state of Bahia, surrounded by tropical beaches and an Atlantic Forest now reduced to just 10% of its original size, is home to exceptional biodiversity. I left São Paulo eight years ago in search of a place with a better quality of life. I made a list of the 20 most pleasant places to live in Brazil. One of those places was Itacaré, right next to Serra Grande. What started as an extended vacation turned into a permanent destination. Gradually, I became involved in the region and its dynamics, documenting the small struggles and triumphs of its communities: from elderly women collecting shellfish to young surfers noticing the subtle and worrying changes in the ocean. The stories I’ve captured are part of a much larger, often overlooked narrative of survival and resilience.

Serra Grande is part of the Itacaré-Serra Grande Environmental Protection Area, which covers a 17-mile stretch of coastline. It is a large reserve of Atlantic Forest (the tropical rainforest characteristic of Brazil’s Atlantic coast). Here, environmentalists, farmers, researchers, and traditional communities work tirelessly to protect the forest and its diverse inhabitants, maintain and revive ancestral native traditions — such as natural medicine or midwifery — and restore plant and animal species on the brink of extinction. A symbol of the balance between nature and human activity in the region is cacao, which thrives in the shade of these centuries-old trees. If the Atlantic Forest, designated a biosphere reserve, remains standing, it is because it is needed for cacao cultivation: a synergy that has saved a small corner of the planet.

The destruction of the Atlantic Forest represents one of today’s most urgent conservation crises. From Indigenous communities and quilombos (settlements founded by slaves fleeing forced labor) to farmers and fishers fighting to maintain their way of life, their voices and perspectives must be heard. Their stories are key to understanding the global conservation debate. This story is about the importance of preserving one of the world’s most biodiverse and threatened ecosystems.

Stella, an Indigenous teacher, singer, and social activist.
The elders of Serra Grande, living witnesses of the area's fishing past.
A woman poses on a boat along the Rio das Contas in Itacaré, Bahia—a river that has shaped the land, culture, and livelihoods of the region for centuries.
One of the reasons why the Atlantic Forest is still preserved here is the cultivation of cocoa,
as cocoa plants grow better in the shade of large trees
Nadine is a popular pastry chef in Itacare.
Andra, a social activist, poses for a portrait in front of the Rio das Contas, Itacaré.
The Cogumelos Brothers live a road movie life—traveling across Brazil in search of perfect waves and new connections.
Carol leans against the rocks on the beach in Serra Grande, the town where she was born and recently returned to rebuild her life
José “Teacher” Santos, a traditional jangadeiro (raftsman), stands on the beach in Serra Grande, a small village on the southern coast of Bahia, Brazil.
Tereza Morena, an artist from Minas Gerais, came to Serra Grande seeking a closer connection to nature and creative renewal.
A Muay Thai professional poses with a fish

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