Jared Leto’s wild outfits are history: Hollywood’s tuxedos are back

The Golden Globes red carpet showcased classic masculinity: Bradley Cooper in a tux, Jeremy Allen White in black, and Timothée Chalamet in a restrained (for him) suit

Jeremy Allen White
Jeremy Allen White wore a conservative Calvin Klein suit for the 2024 Golden Globes award ceremony.Michael Buckner/Golden Globes 20 (Golden Globes 2024 via Getty Ima)

Is the tuxedo the new symbol of masculinity? Have celebrities grown tired of relentless attempts at originality and the burden of challenging gender stereotypes? The recent shift towards a more modest men’s wardrobe on the red carpet suggests that there might be a return to classic fashion choices. Just like certain diets lose their novelty and have the opposite effect on the body, the extravagant trends popularized by Hollywood’s leading men seem to be losing their appeal, leading to more traditional attire.

Put simply, conservative attire would be considered unconventional these days. However, this doesn’t mean neglecting attention to detail or blurring the lines between femininity and masculinity through subtle touches like a bow-adorned shirt, leather gloves, a semi-transparent blouse, or an oversized lapel flower. Overcoming such barriers has been a hard-won achievement that should not be reversed. In an interview with GQ magazine, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli said, “It’s about showing your fragility, your intimacy, your tenderness. You can be assertive even if you don’t follow the rules. Being a man for centuries was about following rules or laws of society, and you couldn’t show your intimacy, you couldn’t show your vulnerability. And I think that is not freedom or power.”

Bradley Cooper with his mother, Gloria Campano, on the red carpet of the 2024 Golden Globes.
Bradley Cooper with his mother, Gloria Campano, on the red carpet of the 2024 Golden Globes.Axelle/Bauer-Griffin (FilmMagic)

In that sense, it can be said that men now have the freedom and power to incorporate elements of women’s fashion into their own wardrobes. This balance brings a new dimension to traditional tailored suits, as seen at the Golden Globes, the first major red carpet event of the year. Many Hollywood A-listers attended, and despite a few exceptions (like Barry Keoghan in a red Vuitton suit and Pedro Pascal in a sling and black sweater adorned with white Bottega Veneta appliqués), most wore outfits that reminded us of a time when Harry Styles was an unknown on X Factor, before he became a global ambassador for gender-fluid fashion. In those days, red carpet events were generally uneventful in terms of men’s fashion. The boldest move was to wear sneakers with a tuxedo, an act of rebellion that eventually went mainstream.

Cillian Murphy
Cillian Murphy on the red carpet of the 2024 Golden Globes.Amy Sussman (Getty Images)

Jeremy Allen White has been making headlines with his recent success in The Bear, which is why Calvin Klein signed him up and dressed him in one of their suits for the Golden Globes, displaying a minimalist aesthetic reminiscent of the 1990s. This tempered red-carpet look has become a new trend, perhaps thanks to Jeremy, who also single-handedly brought back the plain, white T-shirt. Other notable appearances include Cillian Murphy in a Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo, and Bradley Cooper, accompanied by his mother, in a double-breasted jacket with satin lapels.

Timothée Chalamet, Harry Styles’ fellow fashion rebel, seems to have also jumped on the classic-look bandwagon. The Wonka star’s daring choice at the Golden Globes? A rhinestone Celine tuxedo jacket that was much more conservative than his backless red-satin top at the 2022 Venice Film Festival or the mauve Prada leather jumpsuit for his latest promotional tour.

Timothée Chalamet
Timothée Chalamet on the red carpet at the 2024 Golden Globes.Steve Granitz (FilmMagic)
Timothee Chalamet
...and in a backless red-satin top at the Venice Film Festival in 2022.Stephane Cardinale - Corbis (Corbis via Getty Images)

Jared Leto is another Hollywood star who has been driving the men’s fashion revolution. But he also seems to shifting to more traditional styles, perhaps because of creative director Alessandro Michele’s split with Gucci. Michele was known for creating Leto’s androgynous, ironic and baroque aesthetic. Now, Sabato di Sarno, a Neapolitan with more austere tastes, has taken over at Gucci. Leto has been recently spotted wearing Givenchy clothing characterized by black and white tones, impeccable tuxedo jackets, and pants with a 1970s flair.

Another red-carpet regular, Jacob Elordi, is also showcasing the new direction in men’s fashion. Classic suits and traditional formulas may become the norm, but with room for unique touches like transparent shirts, oversized lapels, stylish ankle boots and statement jewelry. These trends represent the evolution of masculinity, combining the best classic looks with new materials and shapes. Ultimately, it’s about embracing the best of both worlds.

Jared Leto
Jared Leto wearing Givenchy on the red carpet at the 2024 Golden Globes.Jon Kopaloff (WireImage,)

According to Harry Lambert, a stylist known for working with Harry Styles, Josh O’Connor, and Eddie Redmayne, fashion and gender have taken on a new perspective for the younger generations. In the past, being interested in fashion was often associated with being gay, but now it simply means being interested in how you present yourself to others. In a recent interview with XL Semanal, Lambert said that more and more men are embracing choices traditionally associated with feminine tastes, such as pink, feathers and pearls.

The men’s collections for spring-summer 2024 confirm a trend: the jacket and trouser suit is taking center stage. But the cut has more flowing lines and the fabric is shinier. Giorgio Armani pairs formal pants with transparent polka dot blouses, sometimes adorned with large flowers. Dolce & Gabbana draws inspiration from vintage suits and gives them a contemporary touch. Jonathan Anderson and Zegna pair suit jackets with Bermuda shorts, showing more skin. This gender balance is seamlessly and stylishly integrating into men’s fashion, and the most trendsetting men are already exploring its myriad possibilities.

Sign up for our weekly newsletter to get more English-language news coverage from EL PAÍS USA Edition

More information

Archived In

Recomendaciones EL PAÍS
Recomendaciones EL PAÍS