Greetings from Captain Nemo

If these rocks, if these trees, if these waves could talk, they would tell stories of pirates, of knights templar, of monks and soldiers, of fantastic submarines and sturdy galleons, of monasteries and orphanages, of repression, disease and death, of science, magic and thought. They would talk about 10 centuries of history.

The small, lush island of San Simón navigates time in its cove at the far end of Vigo's estuary, within the city bounds of Redondela. The latest chapter in its busy history is its management by the Illa de San Simón Foundation, which aims to turn it into a global reference point for science, art and culture through a project known as Isla del Pensamiento, or Isle of Thought.

The refurbished facilities now host scientific events such as Neuromagic, which brought together neurologists and magicians to explore the limits of human perception; #NeThinking, which convened internet and social network experts, or Testimonies of the Future, a scientific reflection on what the world will look like in half a century. Besides that, San Simón hosts concerts and other cultural events.

When the boat approaches San Simón, visitors may be startled to find a statue sticking out of the water: it is a likeness of Captain Nemo, the lord of the Nautilus, the famous submarine described in Jules Verne's timeless novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. When the tide is low two inanimate scuba divers emerge at his feet, then disappear again with the rising waters. The French novelist was familiar with this bewitching island and he included it in some scenes from the book.

Days of infamy

Once on land, it becomes evident that this is not in fact one island but two: the island of San Simón is joined to the isle of San Antón by a small bridge. This double perimeter may be covered on foot in 20 minutes, which gives a sense of how small this place is: 250 meters wide by 84 long. Here and there, standing among the eucalyptus, cedars, oak and camelias, or next to the piers, are sculptures of famous Galician artists.

From 1838, the island functioned as an isolation center for sailors coming in from the other side of the Atlantic Ocean who were quarantined to prevent infectious diseases from spreading across the peninsula. San Simón also knew days of infamy during the Spanish Civil War and postwar period, when it housed a concentration camp. Between 1936 and 1943, an estimated 6,000 prisoners were held here in precarious conditions, and some were executed by the rebels. In 1948 it became a summer residence for Franco's guards, and between 1955 and 1963 it served as an orphanage for sailors' children.