How to make Enrique Olvera’s five favorite tacos

1. To start

Place the rice in a bowl, then cover it with water. Using your hand, slowly move the grains around, taking care not to break them. Drain and repeat the process until the water runs clear.

2. For the ribs:

Set the pressure cooker to high and add the ribs, salt, and water until the ingredients are covered. Let it pressure cook for 20 minutes.

3. For the sauce:

In a saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium–high heat. When the oil is hot, add the washed rice and, using a wooden spoon to stir constantly, sauté until the rice has browned. In a blender, combine the tomatoes, garlic, onion, and salt. Add the remaining water and blend. Pour the mixture into the saucepan. Cook until one-quarter of the liquid remains, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for another 10 minutes. Place a saucepan over high heat, grease it with 2 tablespoons of oil, then add the Green Tomato-Pasilla Salsa and meat along with all the cooking liquid. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring, to meld the flavors.

4. To serve:

Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2–3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and top each tortilla with 1 tablespoon of red rice, and 1 tablespoon of stew

1. For the filling

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the cecina and chorizo, and sauté for 10 minutes or until they just begin to turn golden. Transfer threequarters of the mixture to a plate, then cook the remainder of the mixture until it is dark brown, about 5–6 minutes.

2. To serve:

Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2–3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and top each tortilla with the browned meat mixture, put a spoonful of the “cochinada” on top, and serve with the onion, cilantro (coriander), lime wedges, and any of our salsas on the side.

1. For the suadero:

In a large bowl, dissolve the salt in 12¾ cups (3 quarts/3 liters) of water.

Add the meat, then refrigerate for 2 hours.

Remove the meat from the brine and pat with paper towels to remove any excess water.

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven (casserole) over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté for 10 minutes or until the onion is golden brown and caramelized.

Add the meat and sear on all sides, 5–10 minutes per side. Add the chiles, bay leaves, and allspice. Add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/Gas Mark 4.

Cook the meat in the oven, covered, for 2 hours. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pot, covered, for 45 minutes.

Cut the meat into large cubes.

1. For the tacos

Preheat a grill (barbecue) over high heat.

Place the chiles on the grill and roast over a high flame for 5 minutes or until charred, using tongs to rotate them so that they char evenly.

Transfer them to a plastic bag, then wrap the bag with a dish towel.

Let the chiles rest for 5–10 minutes. The steam in the bag will finish cooking the chiles and loosening the skins.

Remove from the bag and peel off the charred skin. (Do not rinse the chiles with running water or they will lose their flavor.)

Make a lengthwise cut from the top of each chile and remove the seeds and veins. Do not remove the stems, as it keeps the chiles intact.

Stuff the chiles with the cheese. Place them on a baking sheet. Bake them as they are, or first pour some of the sauce over the top.

Cook for 10 minutes or until the filling is very hot and the sauce (if using) is bubbling.

Warm the (remaining) sauce in a saucepan over medium heat. Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes.

Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2–3 minutes or until
warmed through.

Place the stuffed chiles in a deep plate and pour the warmed sauce over them. Serve with the tortillas on the side.

1. For the octopus with chintextle:

Preheat a grill (griddle) over high heat for 10 minutes.

In a bowl, mix together the chintextle and miso. Stir in the olive oil. Add the octopus and gently toss to coat with the marinade. Place the octopus on the grill and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and cut into small cubes.

2. For the fried chickpeas:

Preheat the oven to 250°F/120°C/ Gas Mark ½.

Place the chickpeas on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and dehydrate in the oven for 20 minutes or until the chickpeas are completely dry.

Heat the vegetable oil in a deep saucepan until it reaches 275°F/140°C.

Carefully lower the chickpeas into the hot oil and deep-fry — this doesn’t take long, only seconds, so do not let them burn.

3. For the bean hummus:

Put the beans, garlic, and lemon juice in a blender and blend into a very smooth paste for about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

4. To serve:

Stuff the chiles with the chopped octopus and set aside.

Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2–3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and top each tortilla with 1 tablespoon of bean hummus, a stuffed chile, 4 fried chickpeas, sliced onion, and cilantro (coriander) leaves. Serve with lime wedges on the side.