A new chapter for Maxim’s, the emblematic Parisian restaurant where Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin dined

There are certain places that exude a more Parisian charm than contemporary Paris itself: they abound with elegance, sophistication and mastery of their trade. On this list is Maxim’s, a century-old institution that has recently changed hands, and is on a mission to regain its status as a gastronomic and social destination for the Parisian elite.

In its glory days, Maxim’s welcomed big stars who left an indelible mark on life in the city. The crimson façade of 3 Rue Royale, located somewhere between the Seine and the Eiffel Tower, has become one of the city’s iconic landmarks. Immortalized in films like Gigi, which was directed by Vincente Minnelli and won multiple Oscars in 1959, and captured in unforgettable editorial moments — one thinks of the shot of Brigitte Bardot walking barefoot in the 1960s or the tryst of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin in the 1970s — Maxim’s has formed part of Parisian history.

Since October 2023, Paris Society, a prestigious group in the French restaurant and hotel industry, founded by entrepreneur Laurent de Gourcuff, has taken over the management of Maxim’s with the ambitious goal of reviving its legendary status. Over the past 15 years, the company has taken the helm of restaurants and nightclubs like the Raspoutine and the Girafe, known for its seafood served on a terrace with breathtaking views of the Eiffel Tower. Gourcuff was captivated by the magical, timeless atmosphere at Maxim’s, which he considers, as he expressed in a press statement, “indisputably the strongest restaurant brand in the world.”

Beginning upon one’s arrival, the staff shares curious anecdotes about the history of the restaurant, starting with the fact that the very table at which we are seated was once reserved exclusively for the tycoon Aristotle Onassis, in case he decided at the last minute to come dine. The table has a wonderful view of the show that enlivens the dinner service, and is located next to Maxim’s signature stained glass window, itself inspired by the world of flora and fauna and the feminine imagination.

The window’s design echoes throughout the restaurant, and even served as inspiration in the creation of the bottle of the iconic Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque champagne, which is, of course, served at Maxim’s. The cocktail menu also features drinks that pay homage to distinguished past clientele, from Onassis to Barbra Streisand and Audrey Hepburn (19 euros).

The establishment’s fascinating history, which has so attracted the stars of tout-Paris, dates back to 1893, when, according to the restaurant, waiter Maxime Gaillard opened a small bistro on Rue Royale. That same year, Irma de Montigny, a young Parisian actress, walked into Maxim’s during the Prix de Diane equestrian event. She was so impressed with the place that she pledged to support its opening.

During the 1900 World Fair, Maxim’s became one of the “it” restaurants in Paris, under the management of Eugène Cornuché. The French entrepreneur brought in the popular artists of the Nancy School, transforming the business into an Art Nouveau temple, such that it has been designated a French historic monument. They say that his secret for attracting the elite was to always have a seated woman visible from the sidewalk.

In 1932, restauranteur Octave Vaudable bought the restaurant, instituting a dress code and catering to wealthy clientele. Later on in 1981, fashion designer Pierre Cardin, who was a regular customer, took over the business so that the eatery could remain in French hands, “because the Vaudables were going to sell it to sheiks,” says Pierre-André Hélène, who curated Maxim’s museum for 13 years.

Under the management of Cardin, the restaurant’s first floor was preserved and its second floor, which had been modernized in the 1960s, restored to its original glory. An elevator was installed in the building, and the façade renovated to appear identical to how it looked in 1900. The former owners’ apartment, as well as part of the office, which occupied the third and fourth floors, were transformed into an Art Nouveau museum that Hélène directed until 2018. The current management of the Pierre Cardin brand, led by Rodrigo Basilicati, the nephew of the designer who passed away in 2020, has entrusted the management of the restaurant to Paris Society for four years, says Hélène.

In the eyes of the expert Hélène, the essence of Maxim’s has remained intact. The shift in management, “hasn’t changed a thing, given that there have been no modifications made in the restaurant, apart from the kitchen.” He does recognize one positive change that has been made by Paris Society in the transformation of the second floor into a bar: “It was like that before, and Pierre Cardin didn’t like it.” The bar is independent of the restaurant and those without dinner reservations are welcome to have a drink or something to nibble on, like a terrine of foie gras with toasted brioche (42 euros), a cocktail (from 15 to 19 euros) or a glass of wine (from 12 euros).

Despite the preservation of the restaurant’s essence, Hélène points out that Maxim’s faces a challenge in attracting younger generations who seem to “ignore everything.” He holds that Maxim’s is a Parisian legend. “The legend of elegance, the spirit, the symbol of old France. And therein lies the problem. There’s no clientele for that anymore. Younger generations are completely unaware,” says the curator, who believes that the words elegance, spirit and distinction no longer form part of the contemporary elite’s vocabulary.

Maxim’s has instituted an elegant dress code for women, and requires men to wear suit jackets. Keep that in mind, because the restaurant does not offer jackets in the case one forgets. Nearly the entire menu is focused on refined French bourgeois cuisine. Hélène says the sole is a reinterpreted Maxim’s classic, and the crêpes, which were once sold as Veuve Joyeuse — a recipe perfected at Maxim’s, which saw them filled with a delicate soufflé and lemon aroma — have evolved for the new menu into crêpes suzette.

On the new menu — Paris Society has not made its chef’s identity public — certain gastronomic delights stand out, including the soupe aux truffles V.G.E. (33 euros), created by the prestigious late chef Paul Bocuse for French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing when the politician named Bocuse a Knight of the Legion of Honor. It also offers lobster a l’Americaine, prepared with tomato sauce, white wine and cognac (78 euros); scallops with the classic beurre blanc sauce, a delicious combination of butter and white wine (41 euros, 71 euros with caviar); and the tournedó Rossini, a sirloin steak sautéed in butter, topped with black truffle and foie gras (60 euros).

For the grand finale, pastry chef Yann Couvreur has reinterpreted classic desserts, in addition to crêpes (18 euros), the île flottante (floating island) — a merengue dessert on a base of English cream (14 euros) — and a chocolate soufflé mousse (16 euros).

Evening service at Maxim’s stretches from 6 p.m. until well after midnight, offering a complete gastronomic experience that fuses history, elegance and refined Parisian cuisine. According to Gourcuff, “Paris Society’s goal is to bring back the legend of Maxim’s, perpetuate its allure, restore its prestige and preserve it as an iconic, elegant and festive place where patrons can enjoy dancing, singing and their company.”

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