How Detroit workwear from Carhartt became fashionable in Paris
The American company partners with top luxury brands like Marni, Junya Watanabe and Sacai
During recent fashion weeks in London, Milan and Paris, street-style photos showcased a common sight: brown jackets adorned with the iconic Carhartt square patch on the left side. Those in the front rows of top shows proudly flaunt their loyalty to this brand, irrespective of fashion tastes, age or gender. Influencers and celebrities like Jaden Smith, Kristen Stewart, Kaia Gerber and David Letterman champion their Carhartt pieces as wardrobe essentials, overshadowing pricier and more luxurious items with sheer coolness. Originating in the late 19th century as attire for railway workers and laborers, Carhartt has transcended its utilitarian roots to symbolize fashion-forwardness. What’s more intriguing is that despite its workwear origins, the brand has effortlessly morphed into a symbol of trendiness.
In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt established his firm in Detroit, the industrial hub of the United States until the mid-20th century. Starting with four sewing machines, five employees and a small electric motor, he embarked on crafting overalls for factory workers. The company faced initial challenges in standing out, prompting Hamilton to engage with railway workers to understand their needs. This led to the creation of the iconic stretch canvas overalls that have since become a staple in the wardrobes of American laborers, marking a pivotal moment in the company’s path to success.
Two decades later, the company boasted six factories nationwide, along with warehouses in Canada and England. Offices in cities like Paris and New York solidified its global presence. Adapting during World Wars I and II, Carhartt pivoted to supply the U.S. Army by crafting jungle uniforms for Marines and attire for women who replaced men in the factories. Despite the challenges of the Great Depression, the company, under the stewardship of the founder’s descendants, successfully positioned itself as the premier brand for durable workwear.
In the 1980s, the Carhartt plot twisted when the brand captured the admiration of icons like Tupac Shakur, Dr. Dre and the Wu-Tang Clan. They were pioneers in embracing these dress codes as part of hip-hop’s legacy. Another plot twist happened over the past decade with the significant shift in the fashion industry. Kim Jones kickstarted the luxury streetwear revolution, prompting major fashion houses to either collaborate with popular brands or create their own unique interpretations. A notable example is the recent partnership between Louis Vuitton, under the creative direction of Pharell Williams, and Timberland, a brand historically associated with the working class. In his upcoming fall-winter collection, Williams combined iconic Timberland boots with jackets that pay homage to the timeless influence of Carhartt, showcasing a blend of high fashion and utility wear.
The Detroit brand has cultivated partnerships with renowned designers like Junya Watanabe, Marni and Sacai. Carhartt WIP, established in 1994 by Edwin Faeh, curates collections that fashion enthusiasts adore. While Carhartt focuses on crafting durable workwear, Carhartt WIP reimagines these classics for a broader audience. Their dual-brand strategy caters to streetwear aficionados, fashion followers, and those seeking practical, comfortable attire.
If jeans and wool hats once stole the show, it’s now the jackets that reign supreme. The Detroit model, distinguished by its tobacco-brown hue paired with chocolate corduroy lapels, steals the spotlight, even serving as a muse for luxury fashion. Renowned brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Valentino and even Zara have introduced jackets that could easily be mistaken for Carhartt originals.
Consumers will notice the difference in price tags. A Carhartt jacket may cost around $200, but a Prada spring-summer 2024 jacket will set you back $2,500. In the past, showcasing workwear on high fashion runways would have been unimaginable. Yet, the industrial era of today has influenced designers seeking fresh ways to express fashion cool.
Amid the fervent enthusiasm for the brand and its products, the demand for vintage and pre-owned Carhartt jackets has surged. A second-hand jacket can be just as exclusive – if not more so – than a brand-new one, whether it’s emblazoned with the Carhartt logo or that of a luxury brand like Louis Vuitton.
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