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GASTRONOMY

What’s cooking for 2013

The EL PAÍS guide to tastes and trends in the world of gastronomy

The inauguration of the Basque Culinary Center, in 2011.
The inauguration of the Basque Culinary Center, in 2011. JAVIER HERNÁNDEZ

The crystal ball of the food world reflects similar images to those we contemplated this time last year. Successful formulas in the restaurant sector — the least sensitive to the economic crisis — will remain in place, guided by equal doses of imagination and common sense.

Although the most epicurious members of the public are always hungry for new emotions, the pervasive mood is one of reflection on the many achievements of the last few years. Flashes of culinary genius will be adapted to local needs and tastes.

According to forecasts by the Sirha Food Studio, an international food industry event in Lyon, there will be an effort in 2013 to gain consumer trust and guide people in their food choices; the industry will play with new sensations yet keep its feet firmly grounded on elements that people are familiar with; proposals will be multipurpose to ensure that each diner can access a variety of choices at affordable prices, depending on his or her personal circumstances; dishes will be presented in attractive ways and practical formats to make life easier for the busy urbanite.

These are a few more trends to watch out for in 2013.

Multiple styles.There is no single type of cuisine and no generic one-size-fits-all format. Restaurants will come in small, large, mobile and transient modes. Tapas, quick bites, drawn-out tasting menus... anything goes. Some people talk about a return to the traditional first course-second course-dessert menu, even as the concept of a single-dish menu continues to make headway.

More women. “In a few years it’s going to be very noticeable,” says Elena Arzak, voted the best female chef in the world last year, regarding the greater visibility of female chefs. Judging by admissions into restaurant schools, this is already happening. A case in point: the international student body of the Basque Culinary Center in San Sebastián, or the restaurant school of Pachacutec in Peru, where around 80,000 young people are enrolled in culinary studies.

Kimchi power. Pay attention to Korean food. This new Asian dragon is fighting China and Japan to spread its cuisine throughout the West. The keys of the Korean diet are soy and kimchi, a fermented cabbage condiment with antioxidant properties, and both of these ingredients are going to be part of the next fusion trend.

Fermenting all the way. As a matter of fact, the fermentation of vegetables and other types of food are keeping two of the world’s most cutting-edge chefs <CO>busy</CO>: René Redzepi of Noma in Denmark and David Chang of Momofuku in New York. Both men will share the results of their lab research this coming summer during the third Mad symposium in Denmark.

Madrid as a showcase. La creatividad continúa (Creativity continues) is the slogan of the 11th Madrid Fusión summit, which showcases global gastronomy trends and is moving to the Ifema convention center this year (January 21 to 23). There will be an abundance of Spanish chefs among the 100-strong contingent. The guest country this year is Brazil, with special focus on the regional cuisine of Minas Gerais, while the star ingredient will be coffee. The link between Madrid and food is reinforced this year through Gastrofestival, which brings famous chefs from different countries to several restaurants in the Spanish capital.

A plethora of events. This year is chock full of food-related events of all types. The Sirha Food Studio in Lyon coincides (January 26-30) with the final of the Bocuse d’Or competition; then there is the veteran Salón Internacional de Gourmets (Madrid, April 8-11); the 21st Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (March 1-17); Mesamérica, which is being hosted by Mexico this year (May 20-22), Mad in Copenhagen (August); Mistura in Peru (September), and the list goes on.

American conquistadors. Brazil, Mexico and Peru have successfully planted the seeds of culinary power, while Colombia and Chile are beginning to display pride in their culinary roots. Meanwhile, the US is adopting the attitude of a superpower, with a new generation of chefs trained in Europe (in particular in Spain) who are already making industry waves.

Inventors. Spanish chefs continue to exercise their creativity, and not just with the dishes but also with the tools they use. Paco Morales’ restaurant already has a 3D food printer up and running. Jordi Roca uses a sealing machine to create brioches filled with ice cream. Carme Ruscalleda is working on her collection of gastrovinos while Ángel León is turning algae into sauces, besides coming up with fish-based sausages.

Hamming it up. While producers of Iberian ham demand regulations to put an end to industry fraud, the latest fashionable appetizers in New York are pork rinds (the traditional and lowly chicharrones), while certain cured sausages are also in great demand.

Special needs. People who are intolerant to certain ingredients or with special needs will have more choices on the shelves. Research centers such as the Fundación Alicia are working on it, and not just for homes but also for schools and hospitals.

Solidarity. There will be more initiatives against the food wastage and in favor of those who eat out of necessity, not luxury.

Tasty paper. In the digital era, there are still paper-based initiatives. Two examples are Apicius (available in Spanish and English) and the Swedish magazine Fool, winner of the Gourmand Award for the world’s Best Food Magazine.

Number one? El Celler de Can Roca could become the world’s top restaurant in 2013 if the pundits are right. As for the number of Michelin stars that might fall into Spanish skies, the future is not so clear.

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