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The hordes return to Benicàssim

A beefed-up program should mean a sell-out year for the famous Valencia festival

"Right now everyone just wants to relax and take a vacation. Are festivals in crisis? That's rubbish. They will never disappear and they will continue to be a business." So says Vince Power, the man behind the Benicàssim festival (known by its Spanish acronym, FIB). And he knows what he's talking about. Since Monday, nearly 20,000 youths ? mostly British ? had been camping out in the Castellón town awaiting the start of the 17th FIB festival (July 14 to 17).

For his second year at the helm of the festival, Power has brought out the big guns. While the organizers denied it at the time, last year's event came very close to being classified as a failure: compared with the 50,000 people a day who filled the grounds in 2009, only around 32,000 did so in 2010, while other festivals enjoyed record attendance. Top-billed bands such as Arcade Fire and Muse went elsewhere. Meanwhile, the British crowd took over the premises and turned them into their own particular summer utopia, which included turning the flinging of half-drunk beer cups onto the crowd into a national sport.

"I don't think that last year was a failure," argues Power. "A lot of people felt more comfortable because there were less people. Although I am much happier from a commercial point of view now. Of course, I have had to spend more money ? the budget is huge. But I won't tell you how much I have paid for the groups. I don't want to give my competitors clues."

Attracting Arcade Fire, Arctic Monkeys, The Strokes, Primal Scream and Portishead must have cost a pretty penny. But Power's reticence to disclose the budget means that FIB is the only Spanish festival not to publicly state what it spends.

Now, with the firepower awarded by these bands, FIB (which is no longer being sponsored by Heineken) may reach the 50,000 figure again. That is a huge amount of people, considering that the grounds are sandwiched in between the mountains, the train tracks and the N-340 road, and will be pretty much at top capacity. In fact, organizers had to push the main stage back to ensure that the public will be able to see the top-billed bands at maximum attendance hours. Incidentally, the legendary swimming pool, in which so many rockers have taken the plunge over the years, has been covered up. It is clear that the additional 18,000 people expected this year will be welcomed by a festival that claims sponsorships only account for seven percent of revenue.

If the top of the bill is strong this year, the body of the festival is a little weak compared with 2009, but interesting performances can be expected from Roska, Juan McLean, the Spaniards Nudozurdo, Beirut and Astrud & Col.lectiu Brossa.

As for the legends department, which has in the past seen the likes of Leonard Cohen, Ray Davies and Brian Wilson, this year the festival is making do with The Stranglers.

But for the town of Benicàssim itself, it's Christmas time for the 18,000 inhabitants. The economic impact of the festival is as much as 15 million euros. Around 3,000 people are hired during the event, with 120 suppliers being drafted in.

Since Monday, thousands of British adolescents have been camped out at the festival, bathed in sun cream on the beach and spending their money on food and booze. "We'll be here for 10 days," explains Jamie Miller. "We've got the beach, music and alcohol. What more do you want?"

Festival-goers arrive at the campsite for this year's FIB.
Festival-goers arrive at the campsite for this year's FIB.SAMUEL SÁNCHEZ

Fish and chips, females and foreigners at the first night of FIB

For some time now, the crowd at the Benicàssim festival has had a distinctly English accent. Non-Spanish festival-goers make up 60 percent of the total this year, according to Vince Power, the director of the event. Of them, 75 percent are British. And of course, on the opening night of the festival, on Thursday, which was a work day in Spain, there were no prizes for guessing where most of the crowd was from. Put it this way: the fish and chips stall in the festival grounds was practically on fire.

That goes some way to explaining why the organizers had programmed a night focused on the tastes of lovers of battered cod. Topping the bill were The Streets. Admittedly, Mike Skinner is a smart guy, having come up with some brilliant musical moments. But how many Spaniards will have bought his records? He was accompanied by another British rapper, Plan B, as well as the Scottish singer-songwriter with the Italian name, Paolo Nutini. Hardly the darlings of the Spanish indie scene.

Nutini was the first act to take to the main stage, at 10pm. His appearance left no doubt that this year FIB would be hitting its all-time attendance records. The Spaniards present had no idea who he was and watched dumbfounded as the crowd jostled for position.

Were there any Spanish groups playing? Well, yes. But so as not to ruin the thesis of this article, let's just say that Russian Red is following an international path in terms of her career, with her record Fuerteventura having been recorded in conjunction with the band from Belle and Sebastian. Playing to so many foreigners is definitely in her interest.

A lot of those who were there to see Russian Red hung around to listen to the sensational Ana Calvi. The Italian, based in London, has created a clear and honest sound, finding its home somewhere between the 1970s and 1980s, with a voice that smacks of PJ Harvey. She was one of the surprises of the day — it's a shame she was scheduled so early.

At 11pm, the line-up was still dominated by female artists, the next to play being the controversial choice of Julieta Venegas. The Mexican doesn't fit on the FIB bill, according to the festival's purists, being too commercial. And they must have a point, because despite being one of the few acts performing at that moment, there were more people waiting in line to buy fried food than there were at the stage.

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