No fear of heights here: Platform shoes are an undisputed trend
Theatricality has influenced both the catwalk and street style, elevating this type of footwear as a clear trend, even beyond this season. The philosophy behind it seems clear: sophistication is directly proportional to height
The origins of platform shoes date back to Ancient Greek theater, while the modern version we know today is attributed to Roger Vivier. Faithful to the surrealist spirit that governs Elsa Schiaparelli’s creations, in 1937 Vivier devised the label’s first platform sandal, unleashing the shoe’s popularity. Later, Italian designer and master shoemaker, Salvatore Ferragamo, took the platform shoe to Hollywood and created a rainbow model exclusively for The Wizard of Oz actress Judy Garland. For decades, platform shoes have been a must-have among fashionistas and represent a twentieth-century icon in their own right.
After years of coming and going from a front-and-center spot in our closets and, of course, on the catwalk, the platform shoe’s supreme moment of glory came last year, in Valentino’s Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection (yes, the same one in which the famous ‘Pink PP’ was born). That was when Pierpaolo Piccioli revived this symbol of the 1970s and raised his ‘Tan-go’ pumps sky high. Street style did the rest, and the ultra-high design became one of the great viral hits of that season and the ones that followed; it continues to be among the most sought-after looks among insiders. Now, brands like Giambattista Valli, Victoria Beckham, Balmain and Etro have picked up the baton and run with it, creating their own versions but with the common denominator of an XXL platform.
The major fashion weeks are coming to an end, and next spring’s offerings are still fresh in our minds; catwalks like the one in Milan have only confirmed the platform shoe’s rise as an indisputable trend. These include Sabato de Sarno for Gucci’s striking reinterpretation of the brand’s classic ‘Horsebit’ loafers, onto which the designer added a few extra inches of height. Speaking of spectacular shoes, we cannot neglect to mention Donatella Versace’s sensational design in transparent methacrylate, Ermanno Scervino’s minimalist mules and the boho-inspired clogs by Fausto Puglisi for Roberto Cavalli.
Beyond the outlandish designs, platform shoes have also made a splash on the streets. In fact, they are a must when you want to wear vertiginous heels in a sensible way, and they have become a safe bet for party outfits. But beyond that, platform shoes are highly successful in all types of footwear, from sandals to ankle boots, and they serve to put a finishing touch on an endless number of looks. One example? This 1950s-inspired look, which shoe designer Amina Muaddi wore to attend the Dior fashion show, at which futuristic platform shoes completely changed the mood of the style.
How could it be any other way? The platform shoe’s popularity stems from ‘fast fashion’ brands, like Zara, which are incorporating several models of platform shoes in their catalogs. Among them, a metallic sandal stands out, which balances its very high heel with the striking platform.
One thing is clear: the platform shoe’s sophistication seems to be directly proportional to its height. The philosophy seems to be that one should be unafraid to go up a few extra inches, which restores the theatricality of the platform shoe’s roots.
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