One maki tapa coming right up

A tapa is noticed most when it is missing. It can be modest, generous, greasy and even ecological, but when a few beers are ordered in Madrid, this little gastronomic detail is immediately demanded. Its fame has led restaurants in the Lavapiés neighborhood to use it as a draw for visitors.

"The idea occurred to us to organize a different type of tapas tour, one that takes advantage of Lavapiés' multiculturalism," explains Javier Vázquez, president of the neighborhood business association. "We wanted people to discover this variety that so enriches us."

In the case of cuisine, this mixture can actually be tasted. Starting on Thursday, more than 30 restaurants will take part in Tapapiés, a tapas route in which each local restaurant has adapted this miniscule Spanish concept to the cuisine of its own country of origin. The objective: to show that multiculturalism can be fully experienced without leaving the neighborhood by trying tapas from all over the world.

A pyramid of tortilla with ham and greens, shrimp ceviche and olive paté are some of the ideas put forward by the local chefs. 52-year-old Cenon Gawaran, head chef at Museum Café, is planning on making maki for the event. "We believe we are the only Japanese restaurant in the area," he points out.

Gawaran left the Philippines for Madrid more than three decades ago. "This neighborhood used to be deserted. There were not a lot of people here, and those that were here didn't feel comfortable, but this has changed now," he says as he ties his apron on.

Gawaran thinks the neighborhood is experiencing a boom, a belief shared by Vázquez, who has been watching his father serve Galician food in the neighborhood since he was born, and who now runs several restaurants himself.

"What Lavapiés is normally known for are social problems and conflicts. We'd like to change this idea. The neighborhood needs to open itself up a bit," he says. Vázquez was one of the founders of the Tapapiés initiative, which has received a municipal subsidy of 40,000 euros.

Aiming to open themselves up and let themselves be seen, Lavapiés restaurants have jumped on the Tapapiés bandwagon. In Argumosa street, one of the neighborhood's main thoroughfares, a dozen restaurants will offer their creations to the more than 30,000 visitors expected to attend the event.

Its organizers have had a route map printed, the local bars have turned on their ovens and their creativity, and neighborhood establishments have made up scratch cards, which will be given out with each tapa. Visitors can win vouchers for more food or money to spend in the local stores, or may receive a number to enter a draw for an iPad.

"This is an opportunity for people to get to know our restaurant," says 37-year-old Mahbubul Huq from Bangladesh. Known to most as Tito, he defines his cooking as fusion.

"I lived in Germany, met my wife there, who is from Galicia, and we moved eight years ago. This is one of the best neighborhoods in Europe. Everybody is treated the same," he explains as he prepares his tapa: beef sirloin with shrimp, basil, and Indian spices. "Initiatives like this can make Lavapiés fashionable, and Lavapiés deserves it."