Jockey rides again

Beef Wellington with soufflé potatoes, artichokes with foie, roast chicken with thyme, kidneys with sherry, Japanese prawns, crepes and dark-chocolate sorbet... Straddling both Castilian and French cuisine, and the everyday and the out-of-the-ordinary, Jockey has carved out quite a reputation for itself over its long history, thanks to its selection of dishes and top team of chefs.

The cream of the political class and the cultural world, not to mention plenty of famous faces, has come here for decades to enjoy delicacies, comfort and privacy in the large main dining room and its host of secluded private booths.

Jockey first opened its doors in 1945, a project of former Hotel Ritz maitre d' Clodoaldo Cortés, whose love of horse racing was the inspiration for the name. It became a focal point for haute cuisine in the Spanish capital with movie stars and high-ranking politicians, not to mention world-famous chefs, such as French legend Paul Bocuse, sitting down at its tables to eat.

A photo of Bocuse is one of the objects to be found in the historical archive of Jockey, along with snaps of Jackie Kennedy and Spanish crooner Raphael. There was an old saying among the many business types who frequented the place: "If your business is going well, you should go to Jockey once a week. If it's going badly, you have to go twice a week."

But it was a dip in business that nearly saw the legendary venue close last year, as the crisis really bit into the higher end of the restaurant sector. Financial troubles very nearly ruined the dreams of Cortés, the restaurant's founder. His son, Luis Eduardo Cortés,

the executive president of the Ifema convention center, managed to rescue the venture, however, finding new partners (all faithful customers). The new Jockey has managed to hold on to staff who have not already retired as well as incorporating new blood.

"The reopening of Jockey means the preservation of the values of classic haute cuisine, which should not be lost," says the food critic José Carlos Capel.

"The depth of knowledge that this restaurant has is incredible," says Miguel Ángel García, the gastronomy consultant who has helped to put together the relaunched Jockey, "preserving its essence," but giving it a few 21st-century touches. "We've brought back the star dishes, which were a reference point for international classic cuisine," he says. Another new addition is the brunch menu, available every day from 1pm to 4pm. Priced at 75 euros, it includes Sorlut oysters and champagnes from little-known cellars.

After the parenthesis caused by the bad patch the business went through, Jockey (C/Amador de los Ríos, 6, Madrid) has been riding high since May 9. "This has been a reinvention without losing the essence," explains Miguel Ángel García. "We've brought the project up to date."

The classic uniform of the wait staff has been kept (including jockey caps), while the equestrian motifs and atmosphere of a British pub also remain.