Empirical, the revolutionary company that turned Doritos into a drink

Since its founding in 2017, Empirical burst into the world of distillates with revolutionary force, challenging established conventions and redefining the boundaries of flavor. The company, created by visionaries Lars Williams and Mark Emil Hermansen, a New York research chef and anthropologist from Copenhagen, embodies a philosophy that fuses ancient tradition with cutting-edge science, pushing the spirits industry towards unexplored territories.

These two entrepreneurs are renowned for their outstanding work at the Noma restaurant (considered one of the best in the world), where they met. Lars Williams led the R&D department for more than 8 years, instituting many of the fermentation protocols and other culinary techniques that continue to be fundamental there to this day, while Mark Emil Hermansen, who holds a degree in social anthropology from the University of Oxford, played a key role as the Concept Manager of the restaurant, in addition to being head of development at MAD, René Redzepi’s foundation dedicated to promoting good values in the restaurant sector.

Together, they took their vast culinary experience and insatiable thirst for innovation to the world of spirits. Their goal was to challenge established paradigms and forge something unique. Thus, in 2017 they began a new adventure called Empirical, consisting of a laboratory of disruptive ideas and a platform for unrestrained exploration. “Empirical is a flavor company that seeks the delicious,” they say.

Born in Copenhagen, the distillery will open its new headquarters in North Bushwick, Brooklyn, New York, in the summer of 2024, with the aim of ensuring sufficient inventory to meet the demands of its global markets. Its production center in Denmark closed in June 2023, and its research and development facilities, along with the tasting room, will move to a new location in Copenhagen.

What sets Empirical apart is its ability to merge old and new into a unique creation process. They combine traditional methods such as fermentation with Aspergillus oryzae (the kōji mushroom), traditionally used for the production of sake, mixed with Western ingredients like malt, also using modern technologies such as vacuum distillation (which allows for distillation at low temperatures) and the extraction of flavors and aromas by ultrasound waves, among others. This combination of ancient craftsmanship and cutting-edge tools is the very heart of the company.

The essence of Empirical lies in its particular way of creating processes focused on fermentation and distillation, in which they even design and build the machinery that integrates the specific technology they need. One example is their vacuum distillation system, which allows them to handle distillations at low pressure and temperature on a large scale, whose prototyping and design began in a garage by welding a pressure cooker, a coil and a barometer.

Some of their creations are The Plum I Suppose, a distillate of plum kernels and marigold kombucha; Ayuuk, a distillate of pasilla mixe (an ancient Mexican chili that supports the community of the Sierra Norte mountains in Oaxaca); Soka, a distillate of fermented sorghum cane juice and syrup (encouraging the use of this massively cultivated, rarely used cereal in the United States); and the novelty, Empirical x Doritos® Nacho Cheese Spirit.

Please drink your snacks responsibly

Their latest creation came about when one of Empirical’s team members brought a bag of Doritos to his desk, which happened to be near the company’s creativity and experimentation zone. Lars Williams, chef/distiller and CEO of Empirical, was there. “I couldn’t resist the temptation to pick up the bag and experiment with this ingredient,” he says. “Empirical is an ‘uncategorized’ spirits company, so it allows us the freedom to experiment with really interesting flavors and not have to be stuck in a gin box or tequila box or whiskey box,” says Williams. “And we can take something that has a unique and amazing flavor, like Doritos, and evolve it into something completely new.”

One thing led to another, and eventually they presented their proposal to the snack brand. “Doritos is all about disrupting culture and bringing our fans unexpected, bold experiences,” said Tina Mahal, senior vice president of marketing for Frito-Lay North America. “We’re always pushing our fans to try new things, so we figure it’s time we disrupt the spirits category by offering our iconic nacho cheese flavor in a bottle.”

The characteristic taste of these snacks is extracted through Empirical’s innovative production process, using actual Doritos and preserving their essence through vacuum distillation. The goal of this limited release is, in their own words, “a multi-sensorial, savory nacho cheese-imbued beverage experience that smells and tastes just like the real thing —bringing the iconic flavor of Doritos Nacho Cheese Chips into the spirits aisle.”

The alcohol content of Empirical x Doritos® Nacho Cheese Spirit is 42% AVB. Its online presale in the United States began last Wednesday through the Empirical website, with a price of $65. It will also be available in select New York and California locations. Buyers can also sign up for the global distribution list of this limited release, which will be announced in the coming months.

World gurus

The presentation of their products is as innovative as their revolutionary approach to production. The elegant, minimalist bottles contain liquids that defy all sensory expectations, taking consumers on a journey of discovery of unexplored flavors.

But Empirical’s impact extends beyond their creations. The project has inspired a new wave of artisans and distillers to explore new avenues of experimentation, such as Irish master distiller Chris Stewart or the Danish fermented blends company Muri.

Lars Williams and Mark Emil Hermansen continue to chart a new path in distilling, and their legacy will live on as proof that imagination and courage can transform an industry when there is no fear of not being placed within the framework of traditional beverages.

Their goal is to create democratic, shareable products, based on the process of creating unique and unexpected flavors. Breaking with conventional categories and challenging the status quo, they find freedom in flavor. As they themselves say: “We connect with people, we learn from them, we collaborate and we tell their stories. The beverages that we create build a framework of flavor and aroma, beyond the novel and the familiar, turned into sensory mementos that remain in the memory of those who try them.”

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